The short answer: Ingrown hairs happen when a hair that has been shaved, waxed or plucked grows back into the skin instead of out of it, causing a red or dark, itchy bump. People with curly or coarse hair get them most. The most reliable prevention is gentler hair removal: shaving with the grain, not shaving too close and, for persistent cases, laser hair removal. Most ingrown hairs clear on their own within one to two weeks.
An ingrown hair is a small mechanical problem with a surprisingly large footprint. It can mean a single annoying bump on the bikini line or, for many people with tightly curled hair, a chronic beard condition that leaves dark spots and scars. The good news is that ingrown hairs are largely preventable, because they follow predictable rules.
This guide explains how ingrown hairs form, why some people get far more than others, how each hair removal method compares and what to do with a bump that’s already there.
In this article
- What are ingrown hairs?
- Who gets ingrown hairs, and where
- What ingrown hairs look like
- Ingrown hairs by body area
- How hair removal methods compare
- How to prevent ingrown hairs
- How to treat an ingrown hair that’s already there
- What a dermatologist may offer
- When to see a dermatologist for ingrown hairs
- Frequently asked questions
- Sources
What are ingrown hairs?
Cleveland Clinic defines an ingrown hair as a strand of hair that grows back into your skin after shaving, tweezing or waxing. Those methods remove the hair shaft but leave the follicle in place. When the new hair emerges, it can curl back and enter the skin, which happens more often when hair is thick, curly or coarse.
The body treats that hair like a splinter. According to DermNet, the result is a foreign body inflammatory reaction, and the injured follicle becomes more vulnerable to bacterial infection.
Two ways a hair grows in
A 2019 review in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology describes two routes:
- Extrafollicular: after a close shave, the sharp tip of a hair that has already exited the skin curves back and pierces the skin next to the follicle.
- Transfollicular: a hair that was pulled or cut below the surface retracts into the follicle and pierces the follicle wall as it regrows.
Both routes explain why the angle and sharpness of a cut hair matter so much, and why gentler removal methods produce fewer bumps.
Who gets ingrown hairs, and where
Anyone who removes hair can get ingrown hairs. Cleveland Clinic says the risk is higher for people with skin of color or with thick, coarse or curly hair.
The numbers are striking for the beard area. The 2019 review reports that razor bumps (pseudofolliculitis barbae) affect 45% to 83% of Black recruits and soldiers in the US Army. Genetics plays a role too: the review notes that men who carry a particular variant of a keratin gene have a six-fold higher chance of developing the condition. Women get ingrown hairs as well, and DermNet notes that the groin is a common site.
Cleveland Clinic lists the areas most likely to develop ingrown hairs as the beard area (neck, cheeks and chin), legs, armpits and pubic area, including the bikini line and inner thighs. They can also appear on the scalp, chest, back, buttocks and eyebrows.
What ingrown hairs look like
Ingrown hairs usually appear as raised, itchy bumps. The NHS notes that on lighter skin they tend to look red, while on darker skin they may simply be a different color from the surrounding skin. Cleveland Clinic describes the discoloration as red, brown or purple. Sometimes you can see the trapped hair under the surface as a dark line or loop.
An infected ingrown hair can become painful and fill with pus. On the beard area, DermNet notes that razor bumps often look like an acne-like eruption and can bleed during shaving. They are most common under the jawline, where hairs grow in several directions.
Key takeaways
- Ingrown hairs are hairs that re-enter the skin after shaving, waxing, plucking or threading.
- Curly, coarse hair and close shaving raise the risk most.
- Leaving a little stubble, shaving with the grain and using sharp blades reduce bumps.
- Laser hair removal is the main long-term option for chronic cases.
- Don’t dig or squeeze: picking raises the risk of infection, dark marks and scars.
Ingrown hairs by body area
The basic mechanism is the same everywhere, but each area has its own quirks.
Bikini line and pubic area
Cleveland Clinic notes that pubic hair tends to be coarser and curlier than other body hair, which makes it especially prone to curving back in. Tight clothing and the friction it causes add to the problem. Because bumps in this area can be mistaken for other conditions, timing is a useful clue: Cleveland Clinic explains that ingrown hairs typically appear a day or two after hair removal, while genital herpes produces painful sores that can come with fever, body aches and painful urination. If you’re unsure, see a clinician rather than guessing.
Beard and neck
This is where razor bumps are most common and most persistent, especially under the jawline. The AAD’s tips for darker skin tones, covered below, were written with the beard area in mind.
Legs and armpits
Both areas are shaved often, and Cleveland Clinic lists them among the most common sites. The same rules apply: a sharp blade, shaving gel, light pressure and shaving with the grain. Our guide to strawberry legs covers the dark dots that sometimes follow leg shaving.
When a bump becomes a cyst
Occasionally, fluid collects around a trapped hair and forms what Cleveland Clinic calls an ingrown hair cyst, a bump that starts small and grows. Cleveland Clinic warns that popping one can increase pain and swelling and raises the risk of infection, scarring and recurrence. A cyst that keeps enlarging, leaks pus or comes with fever needs medical attention.
How hair removal methods compare
Every method that cuts or pulls hair can cause ingrown hairs, but the risk differs. The NHS lists shaving, waxing, plucking and threading as common triggers.
| Method | How it affects ingrown hairs | What helps |
|---|---|---|
| Close shaving with a razor | Leaves sharp, angled tips that can curve back into skin | Shave with the grain, use a sharp single blade, avoid stretching skin |
| Electric clippers or trimmer | Leaves a short stubble that is less likely to re-enter skin | The 2019 review recommends a guard of at least 1 mm |
| Waxing, plucking, threading | Pulls hair from below the surface, so regrowing hairs can pierce the follicle wall | Exfoliate gently between sessions |
| Depilatory creams | Leave a blunt tip that the 2019 review says rarely causes razor bumps | Follow the label directions closely |
| Laser hair removal | Reduces the number of hairs that can grow in | Usually several sessions with a medically supervised provider |
Why stubble length matters
The NHS advises not to shave too close, noting that leaving at least 1 millimeter of stubble can help. DermNet gives the same advice and adds: avoid stretching the skin, use short strokes with sharp blades and don’t shave the same area twice.
Laser hair removal
For persistent ingrown hairs, laser hair removal targets the follicle itself. In a 2002 study of 26 patients with skin types IV to VI whose razor bumps hadn’t responded to medical therapy, the side of the neck treated with a long-pulse Nd:YAG laser averaged 11.6 bumps, compared with 30.1 on the untreated side. The 2019 review notes that laser treatment typically takes three to seven sessions. The study above used a long-pulse Nd:YAG laser specifically in very dark skin, which is one reason the choice of device is a decision to make with a dermatologist.
How to prevent ingrown hairs
Most prevention comes down to shaving technique. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends a simple sequence in its shaving guide:
- Wet your skin and hair first to soften it. Shaving right after a shower works well.
- Apply a shaving cream or gel, choosing a sensitive-skin formula if your skin is dry or reactive.
- Shave in the direction the hair grows.
- Rinse the blade after every swipe.
- Replace the blade or disposable razor after about five to seven shaves.
- Store the razor somewhere dry, outside the shower.
For people prone to razor bumps, the AAD’s guidance for darker skin tones adds a few steps: hold a warm compress on the area for five minutes before shaving, use a sharp single-blade or electric razor, never stretch the skin, use short strokes and never go over an area more than twice. Afterward, rinse with warm water and apply a cool compress for five minutes. The NHS also suggests a cool, wet compress after shaving and recommends against shaving every day where possible.
Exfoliate, but gently
Ingrown hairs are partly a surface problem: a regrowing hair has to find its way out of the follicle. The NHS lists exfoliating scrubs among the things that can help, and DermNet notes that moisturizers containing glycolic acid promote exfoliation. Gentle, regular exfoliation is the goal. Our guide to preventing shaving bumps shows how to fit it into a shaving routine.
Consider a break
The most reliable fix is the simplest. DermNet calls stopping shaving the safest and most definitive cure for razor bumps, with symptoms settling about four to six weeks after stopping. The AAD says beard bumps usually improve within a month of growing the beard out and clear after about three months.
How to treat an ingrown hair that’s already there
Cleveland Clinic notes that most ingrown hairs clear up on their own within one to two weeks. In the meantime, a few steps help.
Warm compresses
Cleveland Clinic suggests applying a warm compress for 10 to 15 minutes to soften the skin and help the hair release.
Gentle exfoliation
Wash the area with warm (not hot) water using small circular motions with a washcloth or soft brush, as Cleveland Clinic describes.
Leave it alone
The NHS is clear: don’t scratch, pick or squeeze ingrown hairs, because this can damage the skin and lead to infection. If the tip of the hair is already looped at the surface, Cleveland Clinic describes gently lifting it free with a sterile needle or tweezers cleaned with rubbing alcohol. Lifting the visible end is different from digging under the skin, which should never be done at home.
Pause hair removal
Stop shaving or waxing the area until the bump settles, so you aren’t cutting across inflamed skin.
What a dermatologist may offer
When ingrown hairs are frequent, painful or infected, a clinician has more options. Cleveland Clinic lists prescription retinoids to help clear dead skin from follicles, steroid creams to reduce inflammation, antibiotics when there is infection, and electrolysis or laser hair removal for long-term reduction. The NHS adds that a doctor may release a trapped hair using a sterile needle or blade. Which of these makes sense depends on your skin, the area involved and how often bumps return.
Dark spots and scars
For many people, the marks left behind are the real problem. The 2019 review notes that postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark spots after inflammation) is especially common in darker skin, and that keloids can form in people who are prone to them. The AAD warns that untreated chronic razor bumps can leave permanent deep grooves and raised scars. If you’re getting new dark spots or raised scars with each crop of bumps, a dermatologist visit is worthwhile sooner rather than later.
When to see a dermatologist for ingrown hairs
Most ingrown hairs are a nuisance, not a medical problem. A few signs suggest otherwise.
See a board-certified dermatologist if
- The bump is very painful, hot or swollen, or is getting bigger.
- You have a fever, chills or feel unwell, which the NHS lists as signs of infection.
- Ingrown hairs aren’t improving after two weeks of home care, or they keep coming back.
- You’re developing dark spots, raised scars or keloids.
- You have a firm lump under the skin that doesn’t drain or settle.
A board-certified dermatologist can confirm the diagnosis, since other conditions can look similar, and can treat both the bumps and the marks they leave. See our red-flag checklist for skin bumps for more on when a bump needs attention, and our guide to folliculitis if many follicles are inflamed at once.
Frequently asked questions
How long does an ingrown hair last?
Most ingrown hairs clear on their own within one to two weeks, according to Cleveland Clinic. Warm compresses and pausing hair removal in that area can help. One that lasts longer, grows or becomes very painful should be checked.
Should I pull out an ingrown hair?
Don’t dig for it. The NHS advises against picking or squeezing because it can damage the skin and cause infection. If a loop of hair is clearly visible at the surface, Cleveland Clinic describes gently freeing the tip with a sterile needle or tweezers, without pulling the hair out entirely.
Does exfoliating prevent ingrown hairs?
It can help. The NHS lists exfoliating scrubs among the things that may help, and DermNet notes that glycolic acid moisturizers promote exfoliation. Keep it gentle, and give inflamed skin a break.
Does laser hair removal stop ingrown hairs?
It can make a large difference. In one study of people with darker skin and stubborn razor bumps, the laser-treated side of the neck had about 61% fewer bumps than the untreated side. Treatment usually takes several sessions.
Are ingrown hairs worse with curly hair?
Yes. Cleveland Clinic notes that ingrown hairs are more common with thick, coarse or curly hair, because a curved hair is more likely to re-enter the skin. That is why razor bumps are so common among Black men who shave closely.
Is it an ingrown hair or a pimple?
They can look alike. A visible hair under the surface and a link to recent hair removal point toward an ingrown hair. If you can’t tell, or the bump keeps returning in the same spot, a dermatologist can sort it out.
Sources
- Cleveland Clinic. “Ingrown Hair.” Cleveland Clinic Health Library. source
- NHS. “Ingrown hairs.” NHS.uk. source
- DermNet. “Pseudofolliculitis barbae.” DermNet. source
- American Academy of Dermatology. “How to shave.” AAD.org. source
- American Academy of Dermatology. “Razor bump remedies for men with darker skin tones.” AAD.org. source
- Ogunbiyi A. “Pseudofolliculitis barbae; current treatment options.” Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2019. source
- Cleveland Clinic. “Ingrown Pubic Hair.” Cleveland Clinic Health Library. source
- Cleveland Clinic. “Ingrown Hair Cyst.” Cleveland Clinic Health Library. source
- Ross EV, Cooke LM, Overstreet KA, Buttolph GD, Blair MA. “Treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae in very dark skin with a long pulse Nd:YAG laser.” Journal of the National Medical Association, 2002. source
This article is for general information and isn’t a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.